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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This accolade has made the family totally surprised.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small shop achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.